Onward to Tours

Sunday 28^th September

Awoke to another sunny day. After showers and breakfast we packed up the van and prepared to leave. We had paid the day before, so that was taken care of. Pausing at the drainage point, we emptied the tank and filled up with water. We are heading for Tours – hopefully the traffic on a Sunday will be OK.

We decide to stop at the Ackerman Cave on the way to get K some fizzy. It is fairly quiet, and I manage to park with no problems. We make the purchase (whilst taking the opportunity for a small wine tasting – I only had a mouthful because I was driving, K finished hers). The satnav was trying to take down a main road to Tours, but we wanted to drive along the river and so ignored her protestations (I know that it’s an electronic GPS based device – but it speaks with a woman’s voice – so we think of it as ‘she’).

We stop for lunch at Langeais, next to the river, close to a bridge. From the bridge you can see the Château de Langeais. We pause for about forty minutes and I stretch my legs. 

The journey is very pleasant, all along the bank of the Loire – although sticking to the speed limit didn’t seem popular with the locals, who overtook me at every opportunity – as usual. We arrived at the camp site ‘Les Acacias’ in La Ville aux Dames at about two o’clock and are pleasantly greeted by a young man who gives us a lovely pitch in the sun. The shower block etc. is fine – haven’t tested the hot water at this point, because I am now up to date with the log, and am writing this on site.

We decided just to stay on the site, as it’s a Sunday and we don’t really want to go anywhere. We sat about and enjoyed the sun – it’s supposed to rain tomorrow. We will cycle into Tours anyway – it’s about seven kilometres. I cooked a home made meatball and chorizo ‘risotto’ for food – far too much again. Will keep some for lunch.

Having fun with the power supply for my laptop. Seems when it gets too hot it stops working. Not sure what to do yet, as it’s a sealed unit – I know from experience that there’s not a lot you can do when they fail. Hopefully, it will keep going until we get back. Just because it’s about twelve years old – really!

The Loire Valley and Saumur

Friday 26^th September

Awoke about eight to the promise of a lovely day. By nine the sun was blazing and the temperature was rising. After showers I made pancakes and coffee, some time later we slowly packed up the van.

We nipped next door to the emptying point on the aire, and then set off for Saumur – the trip should take about three and a half hours. We made a slight detour to find a Super U to buy a few things. Whilst there we have lunch before setting off again.

We arrive at Camping Ile de Offard about five o’clock, and find that it has been considerably ‘spruced up’. A major facelift, with lots of new interesting things to stay in. It’s now part of the ‘Flower Camping’ group. Quite a welcome change. We parked up and sat in the sun for about an hour. After food we sat and listened to an Agatha Christie novel - ‘Nemesis’ whilst I put a goodly part of this log onto the net – with pictures – Ooohh!

Saturday 27^th September

Being so quiet, and dark when all the blinds are up, we didn't surface until half past nine! However, once awake we moved fairly swiftly and showered (amazingly hot showers btw), breakfasted, got the bikes ready and were off down the road to Saumur centre by about ten forty five. It was market day. Lots of traffic. There are cycle lanes – but mostly they are just marked by green chevrons at the edge of the road – and some drivers come rather close – especially when crossing the fairly narrow bridges.

We found the Tourist Information Office (they had moved it from the last time we were here), and gained a map of the ‘Cycle the Loire’ type. K studied it and concluded that we were on the wrong side of the river. We weren't, it’s just that the map gave that impression. I rode back up to the junction to check. We were fine, so we headed off in the direction of Gennes. 

A brief word about electric bikes here. They are great because you know in the back of your mind that if you want to, you can twist the throttle and you will gain that bit of extra assistance with the ‘hard’ bits. Or, if it’s the journey home, and you are tired because you have mostly been pedalling all day, you can open up the throttle and sail home with almost no effort. We do pedal most of the time – but the things mentioned above are very welcome.

We thought we would be following the river. We were for a while – then we turned inland. Up and down we went. After a while we stopped and considered our position. We were way above the river with sixteen kilometres to go to Gennes. We had only come about four – it seemed more. We decided to head back to Saumur – but not following the cycle route. We took a more direct road, and were soon on the road right next to the river where all the ‘Caves’ of the various wine manufacturers were. We found our way to Ackerman’s – one of Ks favourite bubblies – and wandered in. There were lots of wines – but the prices were about the same, or even slightly more than we had seen elsewhere. Besides which – carrying cases of fizzy on a bike is not a good idea. One weird thing – I saw a small lizard scampering across the floor. I took a picture of it trying to hide behind some boxes of wine.

We returned to the bikes and road along the river again, looking for a place to stop for lunch. We found a bench in a nice spot and paused to eat and drink. After a while we rode back to the centre and walked up through the market, which was mainly clothes and shoes, back to the bridge by the tourist office that we had started from. We rode over the bridge and back to camp. It was only about two o’clock, so we changed and headed for the swimming pool. It was very sunny and warm. 

View of Saumur Château from the Swimming Pool Area 

We lay back on the sunbeds and roasted a while, then went into the pool. It was good – and not even particularly cold. We got out for a roast again then, after a while, went back in the pool. Back to the van about five and then sitting outside with a drink. Then showers and food – I cooked pork chops with fried vegetables and broccoli. With a glass or two of wine it went down well. Off to Tours tomorrow.

The Beach and St. Martin

Thursday 25^th September

Woke up at eight, up by quarter past. It was a lovely morning, with blue skies and no wind. I got the wifi going on the computer, found nothing of real interest whilst drinking my coffee, and so went for a shower. Came back and washed the towels. They seem likely to dry on a day like today.

We decide to go to the beach this morning, as it’s such a good day. We pack a few things and head off. The sun is warm. We set up and go to explore the rock pools that have been exposed by the falling tide. Lots and lots of hermit crabs, all scrabbling about. A few darting fish. We come across something on the sand between rock pools, covered in flies. It looks like a large slug – about 15cm across, and moving as a slug or snail would move its head – but obviously damaged. Parts of its insides are exposed. The flies are everywhere. I go to find something to put it back in the water with. I find a plastic pole thing and manage to roll the creature into a close by pool with a largish rock in it. It moves beneath the rock, looking for shadow I suppose. At least it is free of the flies now.

(Addendum to this - I looked up about what this this could be when I returned to the UK, and believe that it could have been what is commonly known as a 'Sea Hare').

We walk about and collect driftwood. I find some more plastic poles and collect them to take back to dispose of. We return to our spot on the beach and sunbathe for a few hours. I listen to ‘The Maltese Falcon’. After a while I go and take some pictures, and then we have Orangina and some cakes, before sunbathing again.

Back to the van for lunch about two thirty, and then off on the bikes to Saint Martin. Cycle track all the way – so that’s good. We get to the town and ride about, remembering the last time we were there. A double boule of artisanal ice cream goes down well, some pictures of donkeys, and it’s time for the return journey. After putting the bikes away we sit in the sun with drinks and snacks enjoying the dying rays.

I prepare steak, potatoes and salad for the meal. K has a shower and we eat. K washes up whilst I go and take some pictures on the beach – it’s a good sunset tonight. I update my log, and then we watch some more Star Trek before retiring to bed. Moving on to Saumur tomorrow.

Across the Bridge to the Île de Ré

Tuesday 23^rd September

We were heading off today, so I got up as soon as I woke up – about eight, and started preparations. Put the bikes away, filled up with water, emptied the loo, put the clothesline and chairs away etc. Went to pay and get the electricity unplugged. By about ten thirty we were ready to head off to the Ile de Re – our next stop. The weather was a bit cooler – so a good day to travel.

We said our goodbyes and hit the road. We were heading for a place we had been before, and after a while, and a few mistakes, we arrived at Les Amis Des Plage on the Ile de Re. We had last stayed on the aire next to the camp site, and so went into there again. We set up, and then realised that there were no toilets – we had remembered the place having them. Also the electricity was two Euros for twelve hours. We walked to the beach, and remembered that the toilet was on the way there. Totting up the cost of the aire we realised that for only three Euros more we could stay on the camp site – it was a CC ASCI one. We moved the van into the camp, and had lunch whilst waiting for the office to open.

I booked us in; we chose a pitch and set up. A pleasant site, with direct access to the beach. The shower blocks were fairly new and had nice hot water. When ready, we went to the beach. It took less than five minutes, and we were standing by the waves. We walked up the beach for a fair way, collecting some shells and rocks. I found a fossil which I think is part of a tooth – may even be mammoth. We sat for a while and had a drink and cake, then went back. I cooked a large pasta bolognaise, we ate, and then watched some more Star Trek before going to bed.

Wednesday 24^th September

We were up fairly early and after I had showered I cooked some bacon and eggs for breakfast – to hold us over on our bike ride. After I had done a bit of washing I put up a line and hung it out. I got the bikes down and set them up, then we set out to explore towards the top of the island. We missed a few of the cycle paths, but eventually got to the ones through the salt marshes leading to Ars-on-Re, where we stopped for some drink and cake  and looked at the church.

We returned to the camp via the salt marshes again - getting slightly lost on the way – I had to result to Google maps to find our way. We sailed past quite a few vineyards - many of them heavy with grapes. We were back by about five o’clock and we sat outside the van in the sun for a bit, despite the fact that the wind was fairly strong.

We had a local melon starter, followed by the last of the pasta from the night before whilst listening to ‘Murder on the Orient Express’ – I wonder who did it?

Meeting Parents in Saint Palais sur Mer

Saturday 20^th September

We had decided to meet up with K’s parents, who were also travelling in France, at a place near Royan called Saint Palais sur Mer. It was a two hundred and twenty mile drive, so we set off early for the trip, pausing at the Carrefour in Saint Jean de Luz for some groceries and petrol. We were going the toll motorway route, so we knew that it would all add up. We arrived at the Puis de l’Auture campsite at just gone five in the evening. It had been a very hot trip, and we were both nearly melted.

The parents were waiting near reception, and after greetings and finding a pitch, we registered at got set up. A very good site, with clean showers and toilet blocks and useful amenities. We waited for the reception person to come and ‘plug us in’ to the electricity supply. We then had a much welcome drink, showered, and then sat in the sun chatting. The parents had prepared food, so we ate chicken and ham with salad and potatoes. It was good. We sat and chatted, drinking wine, for quite a while then, as it became cooler, retired to our respective vans for the evening.

Sunday 21^st September

We surfaced about ten o’clock and I did some washing, put the awning out, and K found the bunting that she had made – so that went up as well. Very pretty. I found that I had been bitten twice on the face by a mosquito – devil insect! Both bites are rising nicely. I took some anti-histamine to help stop the itching.

We just sat about in the sun and chatted again. After lunch the four of us went for a stroll along the sea front, found our way down to the nearest beach and went for a paddle. The sea wasn’t too cold. We took a slow walk back to camp, took in the washing and then sat around again until I decided to have another shower and then it was time for me to prepare the evening meal.

We had stuffed mushrooms to start, and then a dish that I based on Portuguese cooking – chicken and chorizo sausage baked with haricot beans and rice. There was far too much – so the rest would be lunch the following day. By the time we finished eating it was quite late, so we all just packed away and went back to our respective vans for the rest of the evening. We watched the first ‘Star Trek Next Generation’ on the computer and then retired to bed.

Monday 22^nd September

It had been a windy night, and the day didn’t seemed to be any different, so I took in the awning and, reluctantly, the bunting. After breakfast we decided to go for a bike ride into the town of Saint Palais sur Mer – which wasn’t too far, and had a cycle path most of the way. We parked up on the sea front, close to the very nice beach, and walked through the shops. Some were closed because of the end of season. The place had a bit of a ‘Thirties’ feel, I thought. I could imagine a Poirot mystery being based there. We rode down to the Pleasure Gardens and found the lake and a gaggle of school kids  learning to kayak. We also found a supermarket, so nipped in to buy a few things before returning to the van for lunch.

After polishing off most of the remaining chicken and rice, which I heated using the microwave oven provided by the camp, we decided that we would ride off again, but this time in the other direction, towards La Palmyre. We said goodbye and set off. It was a much longer ride this time, and we were well on the way to the lighthouse at the end of the headland before we decided to head back. 

About a third of the way back I got a puncture in my rear tyre. I had some ‘instant repair’ stuff, which almost worked, and partially inflated the tyre. We decided that K should ride it, being smaller than me, and so I took the saddle bags off and put them on K’s bike, which I rode. We set off. The tyre seemed to be OK – and wasn’t going down any more. After about a kilometre the battery on K’s bike went dead, and we had quite a way, and some big ups and downs to go yet. I did a fair amount of unassisted pedalling – funny how you get used to having electric power when you need it – up and down the path all the way back to camp.

I pumped the tyre up when we got back, and it seemed to hold. We sat for a little while and had a drink. I prepared pork chops with apple and mushroom sauce for the evening meal. I had marinated them all day in white wine. We had potatoes and French small peas and carrots with them. It was windy and quite cool so we ate in our van, and then spent a long while drinking wine and chatting, eating cheese and chatting before the parents decided it was time for bed and returned to their van. It was a nice evening. It took K and I quite a while to wash up and tidy the van ready for bed.

Back to San Sebastian

Thursday 18^th September

It was cold when we awoke. The walk to the shower was chilly. It was threatening rain as we emptied the tanks and made ready.

It was a fair trek to San Sebastian so we shared the driving, and were lucky on arrival that there was a space for us. We parked up next to a group of young German girls on one side, and a Spanish couple on the next. The French guy behind us was concerned that we left enough space for him to get his rear locker open.

It was very, very hot. Over thirty degrees in the van, which came as a shock after the temperatures in Salamanca. I got the solar panels out, and we put the fan on before biking it down to the beach for a bit of a sunbathe in the evening sun.

Friday 19^th September

My birthday! The weather was good again, so after breakfast we prepared a packed lunch and went to the beach for the day. One weird thing was that I was lying down and listening to a Raymond Chandler novel when suddenly my right ear cleared, and I was listening in stereo! I had both ears functioning again. We stayed on the beach all day, having drinks from the beach bar towards the end and then decided to ride the other way around the beach from the direction that we had ridden last time we were there. We found a funicular railway and some amazing rock formations at the edge of the bay which forms San Sebastian’s main beach area.

The ride back was quite quick, and we sat in the hot van watching the young things next door getting ready for a night on the town. They all went off by bike when ready, and we anticipated noise in the early morning on their return – but it never happened, and all was quiet.

From Portugal into Spain - Salamanca

Tuesday 16^th September

We had decided to leave Portugal and head back to Spain. Having pre-paid the toll we headed for the A25 motorway at about ten thirty. It was going to be a long drive. I started off, then K took over for the middle bit, and I finished the drive into Salamanca. The weather wasn't good. We still didn’t see anywhere to pay the toll as we left the motorway – so if I hadn’t prepaid I'm not sure what we would have done. Once we left the green mountains of Portugal we hit the arid looking plains of central Spain. We arrived at ‘Don QuixoteCamping’ at about four o'clock. The reception opened at four thirty, so we headed off to Salamanca to find some parking that the satnav  thought was there. It wasn't. We headed back to the campsite and checked in about five thirty.

The highest point that we reached leaving Portugal

We did some washing using the machine and put a line up in the awning to let it dry – the weather was not good. Site facilities are good – with hot showers and clean facilities. I made a beef pasta bake for the meal, and we listened to an audio book before retiring to bed. Intention was to go into Salamanca in the morning.

Plaza Mayor, Salamanca

Wednesday 17^th September

The sun was out so we got the bikes down and headed along the cycle track towards town by ten thirty. The track varied a lot in quality, and K fell off at one point and bruised her legs. The trip to the centre took about forty minutes. We made our way in and looked around the various sites and buildings. Lots and lots of people – many of them students of one sort or another. Lots of interesting buildings also, including an amazing central square. There were lots of food shops so I bought a pasty ‘of the region’ for lunch, and we sat in a central place, close to the library to eat. A small gang of sparrows benefited from our presence. We continued the tour, but the sky was getting darker and darker – so we headed back to the camp although it was only about two thirty.

We were soaked by the time we got back. We emptied the bikes (we had done some shopping), and hung stuff up in the awning to dry. The sun came out for a bit, so that helped. After a while I packed up the awning and everything else, so that we could get a clean start in the morning.

We had decided that we would head back to the aire in San Sebastian that we had visited before, so we had a fairly early night, ready for the off. The forecast was bad, with rain and temperatures as low as fifteen degrees!